This island life: Laidback luxury in Sri Lanka

This feature was originally published in TTG Luxury

Authentic travel is a phrase that gets bandied around a lot in today’s crowded travel space. Clients want it, destinations promise it and suppliers are falling over themselves to create itineraries that delight and inspire travellers looking for something unique, something that really connects them to a country, its people and experiences.

Sri Lanka is a country that offers travellers all of the above – and more. Thankfully it’s seen a revival in its fortunes and is back in the spotlight after a few tricky years. With tourism growing steadily, peaking in 2018, the country faced a series of setbacks, including COVID, an economic crisis and political instability. Some semblances of normality returned towards the end of 2022, but due to virtually no destination marketing, it took the rest of the world some time to discover that Sri Lanka was back to normal and open to visitors.

This has led to a surge of travellers visiting at the end of 2024 and early 2025, meaning Sri Lanka had the best high season in years. On my three-week trip, what I discovered was a seemingly thriving country that’s back on its feet and as popular as ever. From new hotel openings to the unveiling of unique cultural experiences, there’s something for every type of traveller in Sri Lanka.

As Malik J Fernando, Chairman of Resplendent Ceylon explains: “One of Sri Lanka’s main selling points is diversity. It offers a continent’s worth of attractions in one small island. Ranging from the beaches, surfing, wildlife and the cultural triangle with its 2,000-year-old history of temples and palaces, to the Central Highlands with beautiful tea fields, trekking and spectacular scenery everywhere you look.

“We have a high level of biodiversity. Add to that genuinely warm, hospitable people, you feel immediately at home when you land in Sri Lanka with strangers flashing broad smiles. This is a raw, authentic destination which can be hard to find these days.”

Greeted warmly at the airport by my driver I started my adventure in the laid-back surf town of Weligama on the south coast. Staying at Cape Weligama, part of Resplendent Ceylon, I was interested to see the results of a refresh to mark its 10th anniversary. The celebrated Relais & Châteaux property has upgraded bedrooms, the new Cove Beach and beach club, Forest School Kids Club with a nature-inspired programme, newly designed interiors, more interconnected rooms for families and three sets of 310m² Cape Residences, being marketed by the hotel as some of most luxurious in the country.

My Master Suite was huge with generous bedroom, bathroom with rolltop bath and separate shower room, plus a roomy private terrace with sun loungers overlooking one of the hotel’s swimming pools – the other one is the iconic moon-shaped adults-only pool. As you’d expect from Relais & Châteaux, the food is excellent. Having dinner on the terrace of the convivial Atlas restaurant while gazing at the Indian Ocean is an unforgettable experience. The Surf Bar is a relaxing space with cocktails, wood-panelled library and outdoor terrace. Staff can arrange experiences including visits to Udawalawe National Park to see elephants, sunset whale watching cruises on a private yacht, wellness programmes and junior chef classes for the children.

Heading up the coast, next stop was Tekanda Lodge, just a 10-minute tuk tuk drive from Sri Lanka’s hip new surf spot, Ahangama. Perched on a hill amongst an abandoned tea, coconut and cinnamon estate, the six-bedroom, 10-acre lodge has been built with sustainability and community in mind. From the handmade furniture to the thatched roofs built by local craftspeople, this is a jungle stay like no other. The private estate boasts 360-degree views of Koggala Lake to the west and the Indian Ocean to the south.

There are two stand-alone cabanas and four large bedrooms set around a quintessentially Sri Lankan courtyard, with shared dayrooms and an infinity pool that blends seamlessly into its natural surroundings. Guests can enjoy yoga classes on the scenic outdoor deck and gather at sundown for drinks and dinner, served family-style around the communal table, on a private dining deck or on bedroom verandas.

Owners Charlie and Richard have poured their heart and soul into building a little slice of heaven here, determined to make a positive impact on the environment and its locals. On an estate walk with Richard, guests can spot endangered purple-faced Langur monkeys. This is a very special lodge that offers visitor an authentic Sri Lankan stay. It’s also available to rent exclusively for larger groups.

Then there’s places like Galle, a captivating city known for its famous Galle Cricket Club, artsy shops, cafes and boutiques, colonial buildings, historic churches and ancient walled Dutch Fort. Galle is a beguiling place; calm and collected with bags of charm and perfectly preserved Dutch architecture. At night, locals converge along the ramparts to stroll arm in arm, watch the sunset and play cricket.

I stayed at Court Square Studio, part of Galle’s Fort Bazaar Hotel. This one-bedroom studio suite dates back to the 1600s and is housed in a row of historic lawyers’ chambers. With artful interiors and distinctive design touches, it’s a spacious split-level suite with a small outdoor terrace. Reimagined to evoke a glamorous yet artistic vibe for active couples on the move, the interiors feature bold local art, loft style mezzanine bedroom and ground floor living room with a small kitchen area.

Best of all, guests can also access Fort Bazaar Hotel, just a short stroll from the property. Don’t miss the daily happy hour cocktails in the lively bar from 5-6pm, dinner in the excellent restaurant and complimentary use of the stunning outdoor swimming pool, new for this year.

Sri Lanka’s infrastructure continues to improve – the Southern Expressway from the airport to Mattala has cut journey times dramatically – but moving on to the newly opened Uga Halloowella in Hatton meant an overnight stay first at Colombo’s Shangri-La, one of the many huge skyscrapers that have popped up since my last visit in 2008.

Facing the popular Galle Fort Green, I arrived just in time to watch the piped flag lowering ceremony, which happens every day at sunrise and sunset. In recognition of its colonial past and British colonial influence a lone bagpiper plays a melancholy tune to the backdrop of the Indian Ocean. Families, groups of friends and tourists converge at sunset creating a party atmosphere where street vendors tempt you with Sri Lankan snacks, children fly kites and tuk tuk riders jostle for your attention.

Dinner at Shangri-La’s Shang Palace was a dream. I’m not exaggerating when I say the food at Shang Palace is some of the best Chinese food I’ve eaten in years. Inspired by Beijing’s traditional siheyuan houses, it serves up tantalising dishes of Dongbei, Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine with views of the city.

Hotel bedrooms are comfortable, furnished in shades of soft grey, white and azure blue, signature Shangri-La beds and spacious marble-clad bathrooms. My Deluxe Ocean View Room looked out onto the rather ugly Portcity, a huge expanse of sand that has been reclaimed from the sea and is being transformed into a high-tech city with international financial centre, residential areas and a marina.

Sapphyr Lounge is the place for afternoon tea and pre-dinner drinks. On level 4, the Pool Deck is perfect for chilling after exploring Colombo. Guests can enjoy a light lunch from the bar menu whilst lounging on a day bed. Breakfast is the usual buffet-style offering with a range of international cuisines for global guests.

My penultimate stop was in the Central Highlands to stay at Hatton’s Uga Halloweela – around a five-hour car journey inland from Colombo. Guests can also arrive by train, helicopter or seaplane. Just the second journalist through the doors, Uga’s latest all-inclusive property has six suites housed in a colonial-era bungalow sitting 1,444m above sea level overlooking Castlereagh Reservoir. Reimagined to offer guests a luxurious stay in an intimate, homely setting, my home for two nights was the Lane Suite. It’s beautifully furnished with separate seating and reading area, huge four poster bed, plush handmade curtains, wood burner, large luxury bathroom with rolltop bath, double sinks and rainforest shower, walk in wardrobe and outdoor terrace. A butler looks after you throughout your stay.

This sophisticated property has been meticulously restored and offers stunning interiors everywhere you look. It feels like you’re saying in a Scottish hunting lodge. Food is delicious and plentiful; the chef creates delightful Sri Lankan cuisine alongside western favourites to great effect – don’t miss High Tea on the terrace.

Sri Lanka is the world’s fourth largest tea producer. Part of the attraction of staying in the Central Highlands is being able to walk the new Pekoe Trail, a 300km walking trail divided into 22 stages, connecting walkers with local communities and the island’s incredible biodiversity.

Fernando says: “This is slow travel at its best where you get off the beaten track and veer off the conventional circuit. This in turn helps guard against over-tourism and uplifts forgotten communities that may not otherwise benefit from tourism.”

Leaving Uga Halloowella for an overnight stay at Uga Riva, I was reminded that not all airport hotels are made equal. Around a half an hour taxi ride from the airport, Uga Riva is the perfect base for travellers arriving late or departing early. The peaceful grounds are a world away from the busy streets of Negombo with a swimming pool, small bar and restaurant and lovely lodge style rooms set around the pretty gardens.

So how does Fernando see Sri Lanka’s future? He says: “I hope we won’t experience too much over tourism, that we manage visitor flows in a sensible manner at the key sites and increase tourism revenues per visitor, which is currently not high enough. We need to attract higher spending travellers and remind visitors that summer is also a good time to visit the country. The value Sri Lanka offers versus holidaying in Europe really can’t be beaten.”

Cost of Luxury

SPLASH

From £4,950pp

Beach to city

Experience Travel Group (experiencetravelgroup.com, t: 020 7924 7133) have teamed up with Teardrop Hotels to offer a 9-night luxury holiday from £4,950 per person, including private transfers with a dedicated chauffeur-guide and vehicle throughout, B&B, immersive experiences and international flights. Including Nine Skies, Kumu Beach and Fort Bazaar. Price includes a 30% discount on the hotels. Travel between 1st September and 30th October 2025.

SPLURGE

From £7,129pp

Sensational Sri Lanka

If Only (0141 955 4000, https://www.ifonly.net/) offers a 13-night trip to Colombo, Sigiriya, Kandy, Hatton, Yala, Galle and Weligama to include a private driver and excursions plus stays at hotels including Ceylon Tea Trails and Cape Weligama.

BUDGET BLOWN

Highland hideaway

From £8,475pp

Carrier (0161 492 1355, www.carrier.co.uk) offers 7 nights at Uga Halloowella from £8,475 per person based on two adults sharing. Price includes 3 nights at Uga Halloowella in a Peoke Suite on all-inclusive basis, 3 nights at Uga Chena Huts in a Luxury Cabin with Pool on all-inclusive basis, 1 night at Uga Riva Negombo in a Superior Room with breakfast. Also includes return flights with Emirates from London Heathrow to Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport, VIP departure service, transfers, safaris and activities.