South Korea on the right track to embrace slow travel

This feature was originally published in TTG Luxury

South Korea is one of the fastest growing destinations for UK travellers with travel insiders predicting that in 10 years’ time the country will be as popular as Japan. And it’s easy to see why. For clients looking to discover 5,000 years of history, immerse themselves in kitsch K-culture and visit cities, coast and countryside, South Korea ticks all the boxes.

I travelled with Inside Asia on a condensed eight-day version of its new Korea by Rail tour, typically a 13-day itinerary. It’s the perfect trip for intrepid travellers who want to explore at a relaxed pace and experience the unmatched joy of train travel.

Arriving in Seoul, I was pleasantly surprised by how quiet it was. With a population of over 10 million people, this sprawling metropolis felt cool, calm and collected. Signs of the country’s economic prosperity is everywhere, from its hi-tech underground system to the space-age-inspired Dongdaemun Design Plaza designed by late architect Zaha Hadid.

Walking the city as a first timer felt strangely familiar, probably due in part to the “Korean Wave” that has swept the UK in recent years. TV shows like global phenomenon KPop Demon Hunters, Squid Game, Oscar-winning film Parasite, bands like BTS and Blackpink, the explosion of Korean food and much-coveted Korean beauty brands have all taken the UK by storm. Seeing a surge in demand from travellers wanting to explore this relatively undiscovered destination, Inside Asia has launched a number of itineraries for the curious.

Inside Asia prides itself on the quality of its Insider Guides, often locals or expats who’ve lived in a country for years, speak the language and can share less-visited places with visitors. Jitse guided us on a walking tour that took us along the pretty Han River, sprawling Gwangjang Market – one of the biggest traditional markets in Seoul – and hip Seongsu-dong where style-conscious Koreans come to see and be seen. Known as the Brooklyn of Korea, this is one of the city’s most influential areas with pop-up shops selling the accessory du jour, Labubu, flagship fashion and K-beauty stores, coffee shops, bars and restaurants. Ending with a walk along a section of the 600-year-old Hanyangdoseong (Seoul City Wall) we were treated to spectacular views of the city and the surrounding hills, a mecca for hikers. In fact, it’s not unusual to see hikers transiting through the underground clad head to toe in the most expensive hiking gear imaginable. Not something you’d usually see on your daily commute.

Boarding Korail’s KTX bullet train from Seoul to Gangneung, we whizzed along the first stretch of the new Donghae east coast railway line to our first stop. Opened in 2025, it connects Gangneung in the northeast to Busan in the south and has allowed passengers to circumnavigate the country by train for the first time. Carriages were clean and quiet – talking loudly is strongly discouraged here – and the two-hour journey took us past mountains, forests and cities peppered with soaring skyscrapers.

In coastal Gangneung, pine-framed beaches, mountains, modern art and history collide. Anmok Coffee Street is an ode to Korea’s love of cosmopolitan coffee culture – kitsch as it comes with an original 70s era coffee vending machine at the end of the street. At the other end of the scale, Ojukheon House is a well-preserved Joseon-era home, birthplace of Yi I, one of Korea’s most highly regarded Confucian scholars.

Overlooking the East Sea, Hassla Art World invites visitors to immerse themselves in the quirky art park, housed in a modern geometric building. There’s a vast collection of sculptures, paintings, modern art and randomly, a Pinocchio Museum, as well as a pleasant café with an impressive super-sized sculpture suspended from the ceiling. For those who want to stay, there’s a handful of rooms available to book.

Back on board for the three-and-a-half-hour journey to Gyeongju, this was the only part of the journey that isn’t on the higher speed KTX line. Passengers travel on the equally impressive ITX train, running at speeds of up to 165 kmph. Carriages have adjustable seats, generous legroom and panoramic windows – ideal for taking in the sea views on one side and lush green mountains on the other.

Once the capital of the Silla Kingdom, mystical Gyeongju is often referred to as a museum without walls, dotted with dozens of ancient tombs, temples and heritage sites. Its history stretches back more than 1,000 years and much of that legacy remains visible in its streets and surrounding areas.

Sumin, our engaging Insider Guide, enthusiastically recounted the history of the eight century UNESCO-listed Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto, a relic of Buddhist culture from the Silla Kingdom. Lunch at Yangdong Folk Village gave us time to explore Korea’s largest traditional village – some houses are over 200 years old – and meet an eighth-generation resident who was happy to chat and share stories about his ancestors.

It's worth spending some time in Gyeongju; I’d recommend extending a stay here if the itinerary allows. There’s a real peacefulness to the city. Walking amongst the burial grounds was strangely calming and joining the nighttime crowds at the pretty Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond is a must-do. Save plenty of time to explore the area around Hwangridangil street where traditional hanok houses now serve as hotels, restaurants, wine bars, quirky shops and cafes. Visitors can hire brightly coloured golf carts and bikes to get around and it’s not unusual to see people walking the streets dressed in traditional Hanbok dresses heading for a photo shoot amongst the Daereungwon Tomb Complex.

Hurtling towards Busan on the next leg of the trip, I was intrigued to find out more about South Korea’s second city. This trading port is gritty, garish and grimy – everything I love in a city. The superfast KTX line between Gyeongju and Busan got us there in under an hour. A popular Korean weekend beach getaway, Busan couldn’t be more different to Seoul.

On the coastal path, Haedong Yonggungsa is a garish Buddhist sea temple. Built on the edge of a cliff this place is an attack on the senses where the kitsch dial has been turned up to the max – there’s a giant, golden Laughing Buddha, pagoda, small bamboo forest and statues of the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac. Like a lot of places in Korea, the temple is actually a reimagining of the original. It felt more like a theme park than a temple to me, but that’s all part of the authentic Busan experience provided by Inside Asia.

Once a slum for refugees during the Korean war, Gamcheon Village has been transformed into a tourist destination. Sometimes referred to as the Santorini or Machu Picchu of South Korea, don’t come here expecting to find remarkable beauty and ancient citadels. It’s all about selfies with the Little Prince – said to be a symbol of hope and renewal – and wandering the maze-like tangle of brightly coloured streets and houses that tumble down to the port. Cafes, gift shops, bakeries and restaurants line the busy streets at this Busan favourite.

As part of the Korea by Rail itinerary clients get to experience a street food tour of Busan by night. Drinking and eating culture in Korea is huge – locals dish out hangover cures to each other before a heavy night of drinking. We ate some incredible food throughout the trip – from some of the best tofu I’ve ever eaten to kimchi recipes handed down through generations. Foodies won’t be disappointed in South Korea. I’d go back for the food alone.

Chris, our guide, took us to a lively spot near Gwanghwamun to sample Korea’s famous haemul bindaetteok (seafood mung bean pancakes), ojingeo muchim (spicy squid salad), beer and one too many sojus – Korea’s renowned local spirit that’s traditionally added to beer. Ending dinner with a drinking competition with the locals was a highlight. A stop at a seafood restaurant in Jagalchi Market involved sashimi and san-nakji – live octopus tentacles – not a dish for the faint hearted, or vegetarians. But the ultimate late-night pastime is drinking and eating at a pojangmacha. Literally translated to “covered horse cart” these tents have become synonymous with old-school Busan culture. What did we eat? I can’t remember. What did we drink? A lot, and this is where it all becomes hazy.

Catching our last KTX bullet train from Busan to Seoul – an easy two and a half hour journey – the penultimate day involved a very hungover cookery class at the Seoul Cooking Club and a final, fabulous flourish at Showflix. Located on Sindang-dong, one of Seoul’s hippest streets, an old rice shop has been transformed into a unique musical-themed venue. I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve been to that combines 21 musical actors dressed as extras from the Rocky Horror Picture Show performing a mash up of hits from The Greatest Showman, Les Misérables, Mamma Mia! and Notre-Dame de Paris.

And that’s exactly why you should book a trip to South Korea, it’s like nowhere else. Combine it with a stay in Japan or China and dive into a rich culture that combines incredible food, K-culture, fascinating history and some surprising finds along the way.

Inside Asia’s Korea by Rail tour starts at £3,455 per person for 13 days and 12 nights.
insideasiatours.com/south-korea/tailormade-trips/korea-rail