Treasured island: My stay at Grenada’s best luxury hotel
This feature was originally published in TTG Luxury
The sun is setting and I’m bobbing around on a yacht on the Caribbean Sea as the sky turns a deep, dark pink. Rum punch is flowing like water, our onboard chef has whipped up some delicious snacks from the tiny galley kitchen and our guide is relaying the fascinating history of Grenada. Safe to say my introduction to the Spice Island has been a good one so far.
If you’re looking for an authentic Caribbean experience this is the island for you. Due to its size – the same as the Isle of Wight – getting around Grenada is easy. Most attractions and experiences are a short hop away, one of the many reasons you should book a trip to Grenada. With its small island feel, population of just 110,000, friendly locals and plenty of opportunities for as much relaxation or adventure as you like, this charming island ticks all the boxes. As a first-timer to the Caribbean I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’d heard all about the pristine white sandy beaches, the vibrant culture, the food, the people, but would it live up to the hype?
The simple answer is yes. After landing at Maurice Bishop International Airport we took a leisurely 15-minute transfer to Granada’s southernmost point. The first thing that struck me was how slowly everyone was driving. As we passed through colourful neighbourhoods heading to our hotel, a sense of calm ensued, which would remain for the duration of my stay.
There’s a large choice of luxury hotels to book on Grenada but an enduring favourite is The Calabash Hotel. Located in picture-perfect Prickly Bay, loyal customers return time and again to this Caribbean institution – and it’s easy to see why. Owned by the Garbutt family for nearly 40 years, the hotel is now under the expert leadership of sisters Adèle, Beth and Bobbie who have poured their heart and soul into ensuring this five-star boutique hotel stays at the top of its game and continues to appeal to both repeat customers and a brand-new breed of travellers.
With just 30 suites designed in a contemporary colonial style arranged in a semi-circle around a bouncy green lawn, Calabash is exquisite and exclusive. I was staying in a newly refurbished Pool Suite with beach views, a spacious veranda, lounge area decorated with calming pink and cream hues, large double bedroom, marble bathroom with Elemis amenities, outdoor plunge pool, shower and bath. Is there any better feeling than bathing outside to the sound of palm trees rustling and tropical birds singing above you? No there’s not. Homemade cookies and rum punch were waiting in my room on arrival and topped up throughout my stay; staff also deliver pre-dinner canapés to guest bedrooms every evening. Nothing was too much trouble and staff are friendly and discreet.
Calabash’s four villas offer guests the feeling of a private home. Located on a peninsula just outside the resort, villas range from two to five bedrooms and mix Balinese- and Grenadian-style furnishings in luxury accommodation. They’re perfect for larger groups or multi-generational families looking for privacy but still want the benefits of the hotel’s five-star amenities and direct beach access.
A proud Relais & Châteaux property, Calabash’s food offering is a huge draw for clients who appreciate first-class food and dining. There are three restaurants under the leadership of Executive Chef, Nicholas Pena Alvarez: The Beach Club, Rhodes (previously under the leadership of late chef Gary Rhodes) and Japanese-inspired Nori. Calabash collaborates with local farmers, fishermen and suppliers as well using produce from the family estate, L’Esterre, to bring guests the best of everything.
The Beach Club is all about laid-back dining: think fresh lobster, curry filled West Indian rotis, small plates of grilled steak tostones and coconut shrimp, pizzas, salads and Grenadian chocolate and caramel tart. Breakfast is also served here along with a dinner service on certain nights. I preferred to eat breakfast on my veranda where staff delivered the fluffiest French toast with caramelised star fruit, piping hot tea and crisp white linen for the table. A highlight of my day and how I wished every day started.
Rhodes’ menu is more fine dining but there’s nothing formal or stuffy about dining here. A la carte options include everything from Asparagus Velouté and Lobster Gnocchi to Braised Beef Short Rib and Miso Glazed Eggplant. Save room for Calabash’s Opera Cake – this feathery light sweet treat is like something you’d devour in one of Paris’ finest patisseries. Complimentary afternoon tea is served every day in the beautifully furnished lounge next to Rhodes for clients craving an afternoon treat.
Calabash’s poolside Japanese restaurant, Nori, fuses Japanese and Peruvian dishes to great effect. Diners can feast on hand rolls, the freshest ceviche, teriyaki tuna, crispy tempura and indulgent Lemongrass Crème Brulé. Guests also have the option to dine on a private beachside pontoon during their stay. This is where we ate with Adele and Beth, two of the Garbutt sisters, whose generous hospitality and infectious passion for what they do set the standard for our stay.
It would be easy to never leave Calabash, but that would mean missing out on discovering volcanic craters and lush rainforests, snorkelling trips and getting creative with a cooking class at Home Hospitality Grenada where we tasted Grenada’s national dish, Oil Down. Our host was something of a local legend and prepared us a garden-to-table meal with produce grown in his own back garden. Eating with him and his family in their home was a real privilege and is the perfect activity for travellers looking for more experience-led travel. The reggae playlist only added to the memories.
Listed as one of National Geographic’s 25 Wonders of the World, Grenada’s Molinere Bay Underwater Sculpture Park should be on the itinerary for keen snorkelling and art enthusiasts. Artist Jason deCaires Taylor’s has created a unique underwater garden, said to be the first of its kind, that showcases 75 sculptures over an area of 800 square metres. At depths of five to eight metres, the sculptures are located in a series of sand patches and gullies between natural rock formations and are easily accessible for scuba divers, snorkelers and glass bottom boats.
Annandale Waterfalls often features as a must-visit attraction while you’re on the island but I wouldn’t recommend a trip. I didn’t like being greeted at the entrance by a man with a monkey on a chain offering to take pictures for money and the waterfalls themselves aren’t as idyllic as advertised by the numerous influencers you see talking about them online. There are way better experiences on the island and I’d advise researching alternatives.
Grenada’s buzzy capital of St. George’s is a pleasant place to wander, giving visitors a glimpse of the real Grenada. There’s a vibrant daily market to explore, immersive House of Chocolate Museum where you can indulge in the island’s best chocolate products, local shops and authentic Grenadian restaurants. Climb up to Fort George, the 18th-century stronghold, or swoon over the brightly coloured boats and buildings that surround the horseshoe-shaped harbour.
After a full day of activities, Calabash has plenty of opportunities for down time. The palm fringed beach is everything I’d imagined a Caribbean beach would be: crystal clear water that’s made for swimming, white squeaky sand and a perfectly formed cove. Affable waiters deliver ice cold water and fresh juice to refresh and revive on beach days. Look out for iguanas shimmying across the sand in search of the nearest palm tree. All guests get free use of the hotel’s non-motorised water sports; for those in search of more serious water-based adventures there’s a small PADI diving centre that can organise driving trips.
There’s also a tennis court, small boutique, bocce-ball court, 24-hour gym and yoga pavilion where guests can find their zen under the bright blue Caribbean sky. Also onsite is a small spa where I was treated to a ‘zero miles’ spa treatment. Relaxing, rejuvenating treatments use local Grenadian products like lemongrass, honey, flowers and natural oils. Guests can also opt for Elemis facials, cocoa-infused massages and other signature treatments. A large infinity pool overlooks Calabash’s pretty gardens with plenty of sun loungers and parasols for some serious relaxation.
During the day, the Beach Club is the place to indulge in long lunches, cocktails and sundowners. Come the evenings, everything is quiet and calm at Calabash. Those looking for some authentic Grenadian night life should make a beeline for the West Indies Beer Company or The Junction, both just a five-minute walk from the hotel. I visited (in the name of research, obviously) and can confirm they’re the best places for a late-night drink and dancing with a mixed crowd of locals and international students studying on Grenada.
If you’re in search of an easy-going Caribbean island that offers good food, plenty of culture, adventure, easy connections from the UK and the best beaches, Grenada should be on your radar. And there’s no better place to experience it all than at The Calabash Hotel.
Rates start from $850 (approx. £680), based on two people sharing a Westside Suite on a bed & breakfast basis in low season. www.calabashhotel.com