In search of culture, folklore and a touch of romance on Europe’s best train routes

This feature was originally published in Companion for 25Hours Hotels

The first railway line was built in England in 1825. On the Stockton and Darlington Railway, wagons transporting coal were pulled by steam engines with passengers travelling by horse-drawn carriage. The glamorous golden era of steam attracted well-heeled passengers dressed in all their finery, heading off on grand adventures. Steam trains transported them to often untouched regions making them accessible to all and creating a new visitor economy for towns and cities along the train lines.

These days, trains offer travellers an attractive alternative to flying, opening our eyes to lesser explored routes that are unseen when we take to the skies. The environmental benefits of train travel can’t be underestimated either: travelling by train produces significantly lower carbon emissions and creates less light pollution than airports or highways. Taking the train allows you to immerse yourself in the beauty of natural landscapes and embrace the joy of slow travel.

Going by rail often gives you direct access to the heart of a city and means avoiding the stress of airports, potential flight delays and long airport transfers. And with the dawn of more high-speed trains and sleepers, it’s never been easier to travel across Europe by train.

New routes like the Drielandentrein (Three-Country Train) travelling through Belgium, Germany and The Netherlands, the European Sleeper to destinations including Switzerland, Venice, Prague and Antwerp, and new routes from Austria’s ÖBB are enticing people back to the tracks. Here’s my pick of some of the best routes.

1. Italy to Germany: Florence to Munich via Verona 

In his book Mornings in Florence, John Ruskin wrote about the city, “You will begin to wonder that human daring ever achieved anything so magnificent”. It’s true – early mornings in Florence afford visitors undeniably beautiful scenes where you can savour Renaissance art and architecture before the crowds descend. 25hours Hotel Florence Piazza San Paolino is just a seven-minute walk from Firenze Santa Maria Novella train station, so after enjoying a typical Florentine breakfast of cream filled croissants and strong espresso, you can collect your luggage and comfortably have time to board the train for Munich via Verona.

You’ll travel through the Italian countryside, dotted with hilltop fortresses, forests, vineyards and the flat plains of Veneto before arriving in Verona for an overnight stop. There’s nothing more joyful than watching an opera during the summer season at the city’s famous Arena di Verona. Built in the first half of the first century A.D, enjoy a life-defining moment as you sit on the ancient marble steps, warmed by the hot Tuscan sun, heart breaking as you watch the tragic love story of La Traviata unfold.

Back on board, part two of your adventure by rail from Verona to Munich takes you through the Brenner Pass, said to be one of the most scenic train rides in the world. Spanning Germany, Austria and Italy, the alpine route winds through valleys, gorges and hillside towns. With the Alps on either side, dramatic views greet you from all angles. As you pass into Germany, mountains give way to the rolling green countryside, signalling your arrival into Bavaria’s captivating capital, Munich.

oebb.at, int.bahn.de

2. Germany to Denmark: Berlin to Copenhagen

For me, travelling on a night train conjures up feelings of fleeting romantic encounters and far-flung places. Trundling through the night, waking up in a new country is the stuff of travel dreams and a trip on the Snalltaget night train from Berlin to Copenhagen is no exception. There’s also the option of carrying on to Stockholm if you want to extend your journey into Sweden.

Before boarding, reserve a table for dinner at Krogen, meaning “The Pub” in Swedish. The authentic restaurant car serves Swedish classics including open prawn sandwiches, cheese filled Schnitzel, unctuous goulash with potatoes and comforting apple pie with custard, all served on elegant porcelain crockery.

Bed down for the night in your own private compartment. Sleeping up to six people, bedding is supplied. For travellers on a budget, book a seat or a shared compartment. In the morning you’ll wake to glimpses of the German coast and Danish beaches as you pass over the marshy fenlands and watery landscapes of North Zealand. Breakfast onboard means more time for exploring once you disembark in Copenhagen.

snalltaget.se

3. Germany: Hamburg, Lübeck, Potsdam and Berlin

The cities of Northern Germany are best explored by train taking in four of the region’s finest: Hamburg, Lübeck, Potsdam and Berlin.

Starting in Hamburg, begin by exploring the UNESCO-protected warehouse district of Speicherstadt. Revel in the neo-gothic brick architecture of the world’s largest warehouse complex as you follow the winding network of streets, canals and bridges to hear stories of ghosts and smugglers. Don’t miss the Sunday morning Fischmarkt. Following a tradition dating back to 1703, the church allows fishermen to sell their catch until 9:30am on Sundays. Come for the fish rolls, stay for the live music and party atmosphere.

After a short train ride through the German countryside you’ll arrive in Lübeck, a Hanseatic city that boasts one of the best-preserved medieval town centres in Germany. Sights not to miss in the Old Town include the Holsten Gate, Salzspeicher salt storehouses on the banks of the Trave and Koberg square.

Onto Potsdam, the sprawling summer residence of Frederick the Great is the main draw. The king wanted a place where he could live “Sans souci” or “without a care”. That place is Sanssouci Palace, a Rococo masterpiece that often draws comparisons to Versailles. The grounds house the stately Neues Palais, Neue Kammern, Chinese House, Orangery, Charlottenhof Palace and an immense art collection. Elegant and ethereal, it offers a calm escape from Berlin, which is a short 30-minute train ride away.

interrail.eu

4. Switzerland to Austria: Zurich to Vienna via Innsbruck

When you stay at 25hours Hotel Zürich Langstrasse catching the train from Zurich Central Station is a breeze. Within 10 minutes of departing the hotel, you’ll be onboard, ready to embark on one of Europe’s best rail journeys from Zurich to Vienna travelling through the Arlberg Pass. Booking a train via Innsbruck is key here. This is the most picturesque route with valley views, alpine vistas and landscapes reminiscent of a Brothers Grimm fairytale, but with a happy ending.

Opened in 1884, The Arlberg Railway is the main line between Switzerland and Austria and one of the highest-altitude standard gauge railways in Europe. At its highest point it climbs 1,310 metres above sea level making for a spectacular journey.

Leaving Zurich, you’ll travel along the banks of Lake Zurich and Lake Walen into Liechtenstein, one of the world’s smallest countries. With a mere 40,000 inhabitants and at only 26km long, it has an impressive number of medieval castles and alpine villages for its size. Blink and you’ll miss it.

As the train winds through alpine forests and vast gorges, you’re likely to find yourself pondering if you’ll ever catch a flight again. One of the most iconic parts of the route comes just before Landeck as you travel across the Trisanna Bridge, soaring 87m above the valley.

Leaving the snow-capped mountains of Innsbruck behind you’ll journey into the verdant green landscapes of Salzburg, the impossibly beautiful setting of The Sound of Music ending in Vienna.

oebb.at

5. France to Germany: Paris to Berlin

Steps away from Paris’ Gare du Nord station, 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord is the ultimate train station hotel. With colourful interiors inspired by the vibrant culture of the 10th arrondissement, the hotel is within walking distance of some of Paris’ most alluring areas – Canal St Martin, Pigalle, Montmartre and Le Marais. Dine on Mediterranean cuisine at NENI, enjoy cocktails in the intimate Sape Bar or rent a bike to explore the City of Lights on two wheels. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the Gare du Nord – the ideal spot for people watching and immersing yourself in the eclectic buzz of the area.

After a day exploring you’ll be ready to settle down on ÖBB’s Nightjet train from Paris to Berlin. Board from Paris Est at 7pm and sleep your way across the continent on this 13-hour journey. Choose from seats, couchette or sleeper cabins – there’s also a ladies-only compartment. Indulge in dinner on board and wake up at dawn in a new city.

If you’d rather travel during the day, a direct Intercity Express (ICE) train departs from Paris to Berlin via Strasbourg. Sweep through the beautiful German interior on an eight-hour journey that has it all: winelands, rivers, boundless forests, charming villages and the endless plains of the Upper Rhine Valley. Sit back and enjoy the ride as you travel through enchanting landscapes from Paris to Berlin.

nightjet.com, int.bahn.de

6.  Germany: Cologne to Frankfurt via the Rhine Valley 

Skip the high-speed train route from Cologne to Frankfurt and take the scenic route through the Rhine Valley. The train hugs the Rhine with views of vineyards and castles, barges and boats cruising along Germany’s most famous river.

Look out for Loreley Rock – a place shrouded in myth and legend that’s become something of a tourist attraction. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, legend has it that Loreley was a bewitching siren whose beauty and songs enchanted passing sailors so much they led them to veer off course and wreck their ships on the rocky reefs.

Spurned by her lover, she was sent to a convent by a bishop who found it hard to resist her beauty. On the way to the convent she asked if she could climb the rock and take one final look at the castle of her beloved knight. While standing at the top she saw a barge travelling down the river, at the bow stood her lover. At that moment the ship veered into the rocks, her knight lost forever. Loreley jumped in to save him and was also lost to the river’s turbulent waters. This enchanting story perfectly sums up the romantic appeal of the Rhine train journey.

Arriving in Frankfurt, 25hours Hotel The Trip is just a few minutes’ walk from Frankfurt Central Station meaning you’re perfectly placed to bed down on arrival in the city. With interiors inspired by Frankfurt artist Michael Dreher expect the unexpected with Oriental Barshuka restaurant, Japanese Shuka bar and a rooftop terrace with an obstacle course, sauna and relaxation area.

int.bahn.de